Keep in mind the oil pressure light on the dashboard is not a foolproof system. If the light does come on, the engine has been without oil long enough to do severe damage.

If the water does not bead up on the car's exterior after it has rained, it is time for a wax job. Your Car should be waxed twice a year; more if you drive near salt water or park your car outside.

If white smoke flows from your exhaust after the engine warms up, it could indicate a leaky head gasket (this is commonly referred to as a blown head gasket). The coolant leaks into the combustion chamber and burns to make the white smoke. Other symptoms to look for are oil in the radiator fluid or water in the engine oil. Also be aware that white smoke can also just mean that the car is running rich. However, a rich running engine will usually emit white smoke immediately after start-up and continue thereafter.

When adding oil to the engine, make sure to wipe away any oil that spills on the ignition wires. Oil destroys the insulation on the wires, making them weak.

Symptoms of piston ring wear are: hard starting in cold weather, blue smoke from the exhaust, and power loss going up inclines or when accelerating. If you are experiencing these symptoms, be prepared for a "ring job" (expensive). However, worn valve stem seals could also show the same symptoms. If there is constant blue smoke it is probably the rings. If the blue smoke is only during deceleration, it is most likely a seal.

Most people ruin their door locks without knowing. Never use lock de-icer without re-lubricating the lock. De-icer contains alcohol that melts the ice but also dilutes the lubricant in the lock; therefore causing the locks to stick and finally fail. Do not use regular penetrating oil, it washes out the lubricant in the lock. Make sure to use a graphite lubricant or sewing machine oil.

How do I get the musty odour out of my car? A deodoriser will mask the problem temporarily and steam cleaning will get rid of it for a while, but it will come back. The trick is to get the carpets and upholstery steam cleaned and then remove the carpets and under-padding to wash the floorpan (the musty smell usually comes from the moisture between the floorpan and the carpet. Don't forget to wash the floor, seats, carpet, headliner and all upholstery with a disinfectant such as Lysol. If you have access to an ozonator, (I have an ozonator/ionizer) it can help to destroy the odors as well. But you must not run it too long or it will also eventually oxidize anything rubber or plastic. Several hours should be enough to kill the odor-causing bacteria and mildew depending on the ozone output. Incidently, the latter is also excellent for removing the mildew odor from boats, and a must for sterilizing your ducting in home or office.

Never rest your hand on the gear shift knob, it causes increased wear and premature failure to the synchronisers. The synchronisers are what stop the gears from grinding every time you shift.

A little safety tip: make sure to clean dirt off your headlights. The road grime in winter tends to coat the lights when following other cars and reduce visibility. This may sound unnecessary but try it, it makes a big difference. This is also common in the spring and autumn months with wet dirt roads.

To get the haze off your windshield that your wipers or washer fluid won't remove, wash the windshield with vinegar, rinse with water, and dry.

If you get stuck in mud or snow, the best way to get out is to gently accelerate back and forth to produce a rocking motion. Note that 15% tire spin gives you maximum traction, so do not "gun it". Also, do not rock more than a few times as you take a chance of damaging your automatic transmission.

One of the simplest and least expensive horsepower gains comes from a tuned free-flowing exhaust. A set of exhaust headers with a low back-pressure muffler will normally increase horsepower by up to 15%.

If you are buying an older used car with an automatic transmission, be very careful which one you choose. The horsepower loss between different transmissions varies dramatically. The local transmission shop will be able to quote you exact figures on different transmissions and their horsepower "robbing" capabilities. The percentage can range from I 0% loss of power all the way up to 35%, although the latter is very rare. Most newer cars are only 4-8%, but watch out for some of the older years.

Another great way to get low cost horsepower is to make sure your engine gets the air it needs to burn the fuel. This can be accomplished by installing a performance air cleaner like ones offered by K&N or installing a secondary air cleaner to increase air intake volume.

Nail polish remover is a great cleaner for small parts. It contains mostly acetone and can also remove tar and bugs from chrome. Keep in mind that it also removes paint; so don't get it near any.

When working on a car and trying to free a rusted bolt or nut, use a propane torch to heat it then melt a little candle wax around the head. It acts like a lubricant and allows the nut or bolt to be removed easily. As corny as this tip sounds, it works great.

How to fix an annoying fan belt squeal even after it is adjusted: If spraying on fan belt dressing only eliminates the problem temporarily, try scuffing the pulley with very fine sandpaper. This is another hint.

Philips head screwdrivers frequently slip out of the screw groove. Try using a little valve grinding compound on the tip of the screwdriver for tough screws. The gritty compound gives the screw a little more grip which prevents you from rounding off the slots in the screw.

Automotive hand cleaner works well to get the oil and grease off of ignition wires, vacuum lines, and hoses. Your engine will sparkle.

Remember that some metric wrenches work on SAE (English) bolts and vice versa. They aren?t exact, but they will suffice. Try the following possibilities: 1/2 inch = l3mm, 9/16 inch = 14, 3/4 inch = 19mm, 13/16 inch = 21mm.

Rough idle quick-fix: Many cars with fuel injection can develop a rough idle after 10,000 miles. This may be due to a carbon build-up and can be easily eliminated by spraying some carburettor cleaner into the throttle body or air intake while the vehicle is running.

Remove annoying adhesive residue from your paint (usually from a sticker you have peeled off) by using WD40, CRC or lighter fluid. Make sure to remove all the fluid after the residue is removed since it can damage the finish of your paint if left in place.

If you do your own brake work, a little tip is to place masking tape over the brake shoes so you don?t get grease or oil on them (which always seems to happen). Then right at the end when everything is in place, just remove the tape. Note: most people forget to remove it so right a little note to yourself and tape it to the steering wheel.

If you're on the road and your car quits, most people want to check if the car is getting "spark." Testing this is easy. Take one plug wire off. Take a straightened paperclip and place it inside the plug boot so it touches the metal. Hold the end of the paperclip about 1/4 inch away from a bare metal surface (like an exhaust manifold). Have someone crank the engine over. If you get a spark between the manifold and the paperclip, you are getting spark to the fuel, unless you have a bad spark plug (very rare).

Never wear jewellery when working on a car. It can either trap your hand by snagging on a part or cause an electrical short if you put your hands between a "hot" wire and a grounded part.

Studies have shown that 33% of all vehicles on the road have air filters in need of replacement. This can decrease your fuel economy by up to 10% by providing insufficient air volume to burn the fuel dispensed by the injectors. Make sure to get yours checked.

Do not rev the engine before turning it off. This was a common practice for older cars, but it is not necessary for newer ones. It can cause excessive wear on the cylinder walls and contaminate the engine oil with gasoline. You should normally turn an engine off as soon as you stop. Nevertheless, there is an exception to this rule. After a long high-speed trip, let the engine idle for a minute or so before turning it off. This allows the engine to cool, eliminate hot spots, and relieve hot fuel vapours that could cause vapour lock and result in hard starting.

Excessive idling creates extra engine wear and breeds contaminants in the oil. Idling is one of the most severe modes of engine operation.

To cool an engine if it is overheating in traffic, simply put the car in neutral and press down the accelerator slightly to increase the idle. This action increases the coolant flow which could bring the engine temperature down just enough to prevent overheating. If this isn?t enough, try rolling down the windows and turning on the heater full blast to dissipate some of the engine heat.

Run the air conditioner at least 10 minutes every week. This procedure helps avoid costly breakdowns.

With a manual transmission, start the engine in neutral and engage the clutch. There is less drag on the engine and it is easier to start (especially in winter months when cold motor oil is very thick).

1.Kelley Blue Book Used Car Guide : Consumer Edition, 1983-1997 (January-June 1998)(Vol 5, No 1) Vol 5

Kelley Blue Book / Paperback / Published 1997

2. Don't Get Taken Every Time : The Insider's Guide to Buying or Leasing Your Next Car or Truck

Remar Sutton / Paperback / Published 1997

3. Illustrated Porsche Buyer's Guide (Illustrated Buyer's Guide)

Dean Batchelor, Randy Leffingwell / Paperback / Published 1997

4. 1997 Used Car Buying Guide (Serial)

The Editors of Consumer Reports (Editor) / Paperback / Published 1997

5. Recreational Vehicles : Finding the Best Buy

Eleanore Wilson, Bill, Jr. Alderman / Paperback / Published 1996

6. Illustrated Corvette Buyer's Guide (Motorbooks International Illustrated Buyer's Guide Series)

Michael Antonick / Paperback / Published 1997

7. Illustrated Ferrari Buyer's Guide (Motorbooks International Illustrated Buyer's Guide)

Mick Antonick, Michael Antonick / Paperback / Published 1997

9. The Car Book 1998 : The Definitive Buyer's Guide to Car Safety, Fuel Economy, Maintenance, and Much More (Serial)

Jack Gillis, et al / Paperback / Published 1998

10. 1998 Cars : Reports on Cars, Minivans, and Sport-Utility Vehicles, Plus Dealer-Invoice Prices (Serial)

Consumer Guide (Editor) / Paperback / Published 1998

11. What Auto Mechanics Don't Want You to Know

Mark Eskeldson / Paperback / Published 1996

12. Car Buyer's and Leaser's Negotiating Bible

W. James Bragg / Paperback / Published 1996

13. 1998 Standard Guide to Cars & Prices : Prices for Collector Vehicles 1901-1990 (Serial)

James T. Lenzke (Editor), et al / Paperback / Published 1997

14. The Insider's Guide to Buying a New or Used Car (2nd Ed)

Burke Leon, Stephanie Leon / Paperback / Published 1997

15. Look Before You Lease : Secrets to Smart Vehicle Leasing

Michael Scott Kranitz / Paperback / Published 1998

16. A Speeders Guide to Avoiding Tickets

James M. Eagan / Mass Market Paperback / Published 1991

17. Illustrated Bmw Buyer's Guide (Motorbooks International Illustrated Buyer's Guide)

Ken Gross / Paperback / Published 1994

Jack Gillis, et al / Paperback / Published 1997

19. Illustrated Jaguar Buyer's Guide (Illustrated Buyer's Guide)

Michael L. Cook / Paperback / Published 1996

20. The Complete Idiot's Guide to Buying or Leasing a Car (Complete Idiot's Guide)

Jack R. Nerad, et al / Paperback / Published 1996

21. The Rv Handbook

Bill Estes / Paperback / Published 1997

22. Vw Beetle & Transporter : Guide to Purchase & D.I.Y. Restoration

Lindsay Porter / Hardcover / Published 1994

23. Have I Got a Deal for You! : How to Buy or Lease Any Car Without Getting Run over

Kurt Allen Weiss / Paperback / Published 1997

24. 1998 Edmund's New Cars : Prices & Reviews98 (Winter)

Paperback / Published 1998

25. What Car Dealers Don't Want You to Know

Mark Eskeldson / Paperback / Published 1997

26. Standard Catalog of American Cars 1805-1942 (3rd Ed)

Beverly Rae Kimes, et al / Paperback / Published 1996

27. Illustrated Jeep Buyers Guide : The World's Workhorse : Military to Civilian (Illustrated Buyer's Guide Series)

Pete Sessler, Peter C. Sessler / Paperback / Published 1988

28. Illustrated Triumph Buyer's Guide (Motorbooks International Illustrated Buyer's Guide)

Richard Newton / Paperback / Published 1994

29. Mazda Miata Mx-5 : Performance Portfolio 1989-1996

R. M. Clarke / Paperback / Published 1997

30. Complete Guide to Used Cars 1997 (Serial)

Consumer Guide (Editor) / Mass Market Paperback / Published 1997

31. What Car Dealers Won't Tell You : The Insider's Guide to Buying and Leasing a New or Used Car